How to Preserve Your Varmala in Resin: Step-by-Step Guide

Your wedding varmala carries one of the biggest moments of your life — and fresh flowers only last a few days. Preserving it in resin turns those flowers into a keepsake you can display for years: a frame, a block, a clock or a set of coasters. This guide explains the full process, from saving the flowers on the wedding day to the final pour.

📌 Good to know: Resin protects the flowers' shape, but natural flowers can still slowly change colour over the years — reds deepen and whites can turn cream. Drying them properly and keeping the finished piece out of strong sunlight helps the colours last longer.

Step 1: Save the flowers quickly

The sooner you start, the better the colour. Ideally within a day or two of the ceremony:

• Remove the thread, wire, foil and any plastic decoration.
• Separate flowers that are bruised, wet or already browning.
• Keep the flowers in a cool, dry place — not in the fridge with moisture, and not in direct sun.
• Take photos of the full garland so you remember the arrangement.

Step 2: Dry the flowers completely

This is the most important step. Any moisture left inside a petal turns brown or cloudy inside resin.

Silica gel method (best colour)

1. Pour a layer of flower-drying silica gel into an airtight box.
2. Place each flower face up and gently cover it, filling between the petals.
3. Close the box and leave it for about 4–7 days, depending on how thick the flowers are. Roses and marigolds take longer than small petals.
4. Remove gently and brush off the crystals with a soft brush.

Pressing method (for flat frames)

Place petals between sheets of blotting paper inside a heavy book for one to two weeks. Pressed petals suit flat frames and coasters better than blocks.

💡 Pro tip: Test one flower before drying the whole varmala. Check it's papery and crisp all the way through — if it bends softly, it needs more time.

Step 3: Choose your keepsake and the right resin

Flex 3:1 is made for thick pours: it can go up to 2 inches per layer with low heat, which helps keep flowers from scorching. Vitro 2:1 is for thin coats of 3–4 mm.

Step 4: Work out how much resin you need

Measure the inside of your mould in centimetres and multiply length × width × depth. That number in millilitres, multiplied by about 1.1, gives grams of mixed resin. Add 10–15% extra. For example, a 15 × 15 × 4 cm block needs about 900 ml × 1.1 ≈ 1 kg of mixed resin. Use our resin calculator for any size, or read How Much Resin Do I Need?

Step 5: Seal delicate flowers (optional)

Very dry, fluffy flowers can trap air and release bubbles. Brushing a thin coat of mixed resin over the petals first, and letting it set, reduces this. Some artists use a clear spray sealer instead — test on a spare flower first.

Step 6: Pour in layers

1. Base layer: pour a thin layer (about 0.5–1 cm) into the mould and let it thicken for a few hours. This stops flowers sinking to the bottom.
2. Place the flowers face down (they'll face up once demoulded). Use a toothpick to position petals.
3. Fill layer by layer: pour Flex 3:1 slowly, no more than 2 inches per layer. Let each layer firm up before the next so flowers don't float.
4. Remove bubbles after each layer with a quick pass of a heat gun or torch. See bubble removal tips.

Mix Flex 3:1 at 3 parts resin to 1 part hardener by weight and stir slowly for 3–5 minutes. Our guide to mixing epoxy resin explains why.

Step 7: Cure, demould and finish

Cover the mould and leave it in a warm, still room. Flex 3:1 cures in about 24 hours per layer at room temperature; thick blocks and cold rooms need longer, so be patient before demoulding. Sand sharp edges, and add a final thin glossy coat if the top needs it.

Ideas for your varmala keepsake

• A clear block with the full flowers and a photo of the couple
• A wall frame with petals spelling your initials and wedding date
• A resin clock with flowers around the edge
• Matching coasters for both families
• Small keychains or pendants with single petals for siblings

Preserving a varmala? Use a resin made for deep pours.

Flex 3:1 pours thick with low heat and cures crystal-clear — made for flower preservation.

👉 Shop Flex 3:1 Deep Pour

FAQs

How soon after the wedding should I start?

As soon as you can — ideally within one or two days. The fresher the flowers when they go into silica gel, the better the colour.

Can I put fresh (not dried) flowers in resin?

No. Fresh flowers contain water, which turns brown and can stop the resin from curing properly around them. Always dry them fully first.

Will my preserved flowers stay the same colour forever?

Resin protects them, but natural flowers can still change shade over time. Good drying, a UV-stable resin and keeping the piece out of direct sunlight help them last longer.

Which resin is best for varmala preservation?

For blocks and deep frames, use a deep pour 3:1 resin such as Flex 3:1. For flat frames with pressed petals, a 2:1 coating resin like Vitro 2:1 works well.